Necktie sewing machine



March 24, 1942. V..NAFTALI I NECKTIE SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 5, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 mQE INVENTOR VALENTINE NAFTALI W ATTORNEY March 24, 1942 v. NAFTALI NECK'IIE SEWING'YMACHINE Filed Dec. 5, 1938 2 Sheets Sheet 2 INVENTOR VALENTINE NAFTALI ATTORNEY Patented Mar. 24, 1942 NECKTIE SEWING MACHINE Valentine Naftali. New York, N. Y., asslgnor to American Machine &Fonndry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Application December a, 1938, Serial No. 243,791 7 2 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing machines and more particularly to improvements in mechanism for resiliently sewing together a necktie lining and fabric.

It is an object of myinvention to provide simplified means for rapidly joining together a necktie lining and fabric which consists of movable folding or pleating members which form a plurality of pleats or folds in an assembled tie andlining, and a needle coacting therewith to project a resilient stitch through the assembled materials to sew the lining and tie together.

It is an added object of the invention to provide improved gauge mechanism for properly locating a tie lining for association with a necktie fabric blank.

It is also an object to provide an improved gauge mechanism for arranging a lining and tie blank prior to their introduction as an assembly into a sewing mechanism wherein they are joined together by a so-called slip stitch or resilient stitch.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a machine for sewing together a lining and necktie fabric blank wherein relatively movable means are provided for forming folds in an associated lining and blank whereupon, due to the relative movement of the pleating members, a threaded needle is projected through the pleated assembly to join them with a resilient stitch.

With these andother objects not specifically mentioned in view, the invention consists in certain combinations and constructions which will be hereinafter fully described, and then specifically set forth in the claims hereunto appended.

In the accompanying drawings which form a part of this specification and in which like char acters of reference indicate the same or like parts: I

Fig. 1 is a partial side elevation, with partsv in section, of a preferred embodiment of my invention;

Pg. 2 is a partial plan view showing the folding or pleating mechanism and the lining gauge;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view of a modified form of the tie and lining gauge adapted for use on my machine;

Fig. 4 is a partial plan view of the structure shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a partial side elevation of a modified form of my invention;

F g. 6 is a partial sectional end elevation taken on line 6-6 of Fig. 5; and

Fig. '7 is a partial side elevation showing one method of mounting the rotary pleating roller for vertical movement.

Referring to the drawings, Fig. 1 shows a preferred embodiment of my invention in which I designates the machine bed which is supported by table legs 2. Mounted for reciprocatory movement in the bed I is a: table member 3 which comprises one or the main tie folding or pleating. members. The table, in the modificationshown;

is mounted at a slight inclination, but if desired. could be mounted for movement in a horizontal plane. Formed either integrally with the table or removably affixed thereto, is a pleating or folding rack R having teeth 4 extending along its length. The rack, as shown in the drawings. is

a straight member, and, although its width may vary to suit any particular use, it is wide enough to support the minimum width of a necktie lining. If desired, it may be shaped to conform to the configuration of a lining. Extending along the teeth of the rack is a slot or recess 5, in which a needle I3 is located. The slot extends below the top of the teeth, and is provided with a narrow neck 5a, which allows the thread access to the slot but prevents movement of the needle upwardly therefrom, and hence, locks the needle against anything but longitudinal movement therein and prevents it from buckling, bending or breaking. Mounted upon the bed i is a vertically extending bracket 6 provided with a shaft 1 on which is fixed for rotation a. pleating roller 8 having teeth 9 of the same size and pitch as that of the rack R. Teeth 8 are also provided with a continuous recess l0, complementary to recess 5, in order to allow the complete meshing of the rack and pleating roller and not interfere with the needle l3 positioned in recess 5. Mounted near one end of the bed of the machine 'is a bracket II which carries a needle support block I! in which is suitably held a needle I 3, which extends through the slot 5 of the table 3 to a point at or near the point of tangency of the pleating roller 8, as shown in Fig. 1. In the embodiments disclosed, needle [3, which is of a length suflicient to completely sew a tie and lining together,'is provided with an eye E at its point end, through which a thread S may be threaded either before or after it is thrust through the pleats in the necktie materials. Needle 3 is soldered to support l2, but may be mounted on the support in any other suitable manner. Due to this arrangement, pleated lining and tie material fed between the roller and rack will be the two materials together. The continued movement of .thetable 3 will feed the sewing materials towards the needle support and in this manner, the entire length of the tie and lining will be stitched together.

Bracket H is provided with an extension Ha having a dovetail slot lib in which clamp block I2 is slidably mounted. By means of a handle lld fixed to block [2 it can be moved along the slot llb between limits marked by stops 0. In this manner, as necktie materials are impaled upon the needle, block I! will bear againststop II c (Fig. 1) When it is desired to thread the needle by means of handle lld block 12 is moved to the right (Fig. 1) whereupon needle I3 is traversed longitudinally through recess 5 until it projects beyond the teeth of rack R. Although the needle may be threaded at any stage of the operation of my machine, it is usually more practicable to wait until table3 has been moved to the extreme left when needle I3 can be moved, in the manner explained above until its head projects beyond the rack teeth of table 3.

Suitably mounted upon legs 2 is a reversing motor 14. having fixed to its shaft I5, a pulley l6 connected by means of pulley belt I! to pulley l8 fixed to shaft 1. By means of a suitable conventional reversing switch IS, the motor can be run forward and backward to drive pleating roller 6, which in its coaction with table 3, due to the meshing of teeth 5 and 9. reciprocates the table forward to pleat and sew a tiev T and lining L together, and backwards, in order to allow the assembled materials to be removed from the needle. Although I propose to utilize the rotation of the pleating roller .8 to effect the reciprocation of my table 3; if it be desired, it can be reciprocated by any suitable known mechanical means, such as racks and pinions, or by manually operated means.

In thesewing machine shown in Fig. 1, a necktie blank T or tie is fed to the machine at a point remote from that where the lining is placed upon the bed. I utilize a support 20, suitably secured to one side of the bed of the machine, and provided with a table bracket 2| on which is adjustably mounted a vertical gauge plate 22 which can be adjusted at will to allow either a necktie blank T or a necktie and a lining to be guided into the machine. A set screw 23, threaded into table 2|, provides means for adjusting plate 22 in any desired position. If desired, a separate lining supporting and guide plate may be spaced from plate 22, so that linings and ties can be fed between the folding members for sewing together.

In order to locate a lining L for association with the necktie, I have provided a gauge which forms a part of the reciprocating table. Referring to Fig. 2, there is shown a pair of spaced brackets 24 and 25, which areremovably mounted on table 3 by means of suitable set screws. These plates are provided with cut-out portions 26 and 21, respectively, made to conform with any particular lining L, as the case may be. The vertical walls of the cut-out portions locate the lining against lateral movement while the horizontal portions thereof support it in the most satisfactory manner with respect to the rack teeth. the gauge as the table 3 travels towards the pleating roller and needle. I have provided brackets 28 mounted on both sides of the bed of the machine. In the upper ends of these brackets, is journalled a shaft 29 having a pulley 30 fixed thereto. Pivotally mounted on shaft 29 is also a pair of links 3| (Fig. l) which'in their free ends support a shaft 32 mounting a pulley 33. A belt 34 is trained around the two pulleys 32 and 33, and is adapted to rest by gravity against the rack and the gauge. and hold a lining positioned thereon. A bracket 32a provided with a slot 3217 forms a stop to prevent belt 34 and its associatedmechanism from being lowered beyond fixed limits. It will be seen. therefore, that as the table 3 reciprocates to feed a lining to the pleating roller 8 for association with a necktie T, that frictional engagement ,will

In order to hold the lining down upon cause belt 34 to travel at substantially the same speed as the table 3 and maintain the lining positioned on the table, while at the'same time allowing the lining to move along the rack during the forward movement of the table to the folding and pleating roller and needle.

If it should be desired to assemble the. lining and tie and feed them in that relationship to the pleating and stitching mechanism, a gauge mechanism,'such as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, may be used. In this embodiment, a lining and tie support gauge is provided having one gauge 24 as in the first modification described, and asecond guide plate 35 located at opposite sides of the rack 4, having a necktie gauge 36 and a lining gauge 31. In order to hold the positioned tie and lining down upon the gauge surfaces and rack for pleating and sewing,'I have provided a pair of clamping mechanisms for effecting this purpose. One of these devices consists of one or more lining clamp arms-38 pivoted at 40 in lugs 4| on plate 24, supporting a bar 39 arranged to hold one edge of a lining against gauge plate 24. Bar 39 is also constructed to act as a gauge for one edge of a tie as shown in Figs. 3 and '4. A handle 42 fixed to arm 38 is provided for rotating the clamp plate 39 away from plate 24. The other gauge mechanism is also provided with one or more clamp arms 43 pivoted at 45 in lugs 45 mounted on, or formed integrally with plate 35. An elongated clamping bar 44 is provided for holding the assembled tie and lining together, as shown in Fig. 3. Handle 41 fixed to arm 43 makes it possible to readily rotate plate 44 in the direction of the arrow (Fig. 3) to move the clamp arm and plate 44 into inoperative position. Bars 39 and 44 are held in work clamping position by means of suitable springs as shown at 52. in Fig. 4.

In Figs. 5 and 6, I have shown another modification of my invention in. which there are provided legs 2 which support the bed of the machine 48. Mounted upon bed 48 of the machine. is one member of the tie folding and sewing mechanism consisting of a rack R provided with teeth 4, and a needle slot 5 extending therealong and formed with a neck 5a of reduced size, which prevents the needle from moving upward and out of the slot during sewing operations. Gauge mechanism, similar to that described in Figs. 2, 3 and 4, may be used in conjunction with rack R as described previously.

Suitably mounted upon the bed of the machine, are brackets 50 which support guide or slide bars 5| and 52 between which is adapted to travel a roller 53 loosely mounted on stud shaft 54 journalled in head 55, which is joined by connecting rod 55 to a head 5'! pivotally mounted on stud shaft 58 journalled in arm 59. Arm 58 may be oscillated either manually or mechanically, such as, by a cam or other suitable mechanism to traverse the pleating roller 8 similar in construction to that shown in Fig. l. which is fixed to shaft 54 along the rack bar R and, thereby, pleat a lining and tie positioned thereon for sewing together by needle i3.

Mounted on shaft 54 for travel therewith is an arm 60 extending rearwardly therefrom and provided with a lateral extension upon which is detachably mounted needle support l2, which which it moves, a plurality of guide rollers 6| are suitably mounted upon the arm and In the operation of the embodiment shown in Figs. and 6, a lining and tie are placed upon rack 4 and held thereon manually or by suitable means, for instance, similar to those shown in Figs. 2, 3 and 4, whereupon roller 6 is moved along the rack to pleat the materials and-stitch them together as the needle travels therewith along the rack to impale the folds as they are made and to project a thread through them and form a. slip stitch. At the conclusion of the pleating operations, when the folds have either been impaled upon the needle as in the embodiment shown in Figs. 1 and '7, or when the needle has been thrust through the pleats as in the embodiment shown in Figs. 5 and 6, one end of the thread is gripped either manually or by suitable mechanical means so that as the sewed necktie materials are withdrawn from the needle I811. Trained over one pulley is a belt I! which may be driven from motor M, as shown in Fig. 1. Loosely mounted on shaft I is a lever lb having journalled in one end a stud 1a upon which is mounted the rotary pleating and folding roller 8, which is driven by means of pulley I8 fixed to shaft Ia and driven by belt |8b from pulley I811. The other end 10 of lever lb has pivotally mounted thereon a hook 1d arranged to engage the pin 1e and hold the pleating roller 8 away from the rack R, as shown in dotted line position (Fig. 7), mounted whenever it has been moved vertically from meshing relation. This can be done either manually or by suitable mechanical means. An adjustable set screw If is mounted upon the bed of the machine for cooperation with a lug lg formed on lever lb in order to limit the downward movement of the pleating roller 8 and properly position it with the teeth of rackR.

The invention above described may be varied in construction within the scope of the claims,

7 for theparticular device, selected to illustrate or the needle is withdrawn from the materials,

as by reverse movement of the rack 4, or reverse movement of the arm 59. the relative movement between materials and needle will.

cause the thread therein to be left in a resilient stitch. The sewed assembly or lining and tie is then removed for further handling in any desired manner.

Although it is possible to thread the needle at any of its positions along the table by projecting the thread through any'of the spaces between the rack teeth 4 and through the eye of the needle which is located adjacent the head thereof. By means of handle 60d secured to needle slot support I2, I can move the needle relative to its mount on arm 60 so that the needle can be projected beyond the ends of the rack R whenever the traveling pleating roller 8' is located at or near its extreme pleating position, that is, to the right in Fig. 5. In this manner, as in the form illustrated in Fig. 1, any possible difficulty in threading the needle is eliminated.

While for most practical purposes the necktie and lining may be introduced without difficulty between the pleating members shown in Figs. 1 and 5, I have found that under some conditions it may be advisable to provide means for separating the members in order to more easily introduce, register and locate the assembled materials with respect to the needle and the pleating members. In Fig. '7, I have shown means for eflfecting vertical movement of the pleating or folding roller 8, while at the same time the mechanism remains substantially the same as that shown in Fig. 1-. If desired, means could also the invention is but one of many possible concrete embodiments of the same. It is not, therefore, to be restricted to the precise details of the structure shown and described.

What is claimed is:

1. In a necktie sewing machine, a stationary support; a reciprocatory table movablymounted on said support; a rigid necktie pleating rack fixed to said table for travel therewith, said rack having rack teeth positioned on its upper surface; a rotary toothed roller meshing with said rack teeth; means for guiding a necktie blank and lining between said rack and toothed roller including a lining guide device connected to said rack for travel therewith for positioning .a lining on said rack, and a stationary necktie guide positioned at the infeed side of said toothed roller and rack for guiding the edges of a necktie blank into alignment for sewing with the center of said lining blank; a needle connected at one end to .said support, said needle having its shank extending through recesses formed across the teeth of said rack and having its point end positioned adjacent the intermeshing teeth of said roller and rack; and means for rotating said toothed roller meshing with the teeth of said be provided for effecting relative vertical movement between rack R and roller 8 of the embodiment shown in Figs. 5 and 6. Referring to Fig. 7 there is shown a bed I having movably positioned thereon a table bearing a rack R similar to that shown in Fig. l. Mounted on the bed of the machine is a bracket 6 in which is journalled a shaft I mounting a. double pulley rack; guide members connected to said rack for positioning necktie materials thereon in outspread condition; clamps for holding said necktie materials in position on said pleating rack; a needle connected at one end to a mount associated with said table, said needle having its shank extending through recesses formed across the teeth of said rack, and having its point end positioned adjacent the intermeshing teeth of said roller and rack; means for actuating said toothed roller and rack to pleat necktie materials on said rack and impale said pleats upon said needle; and means supporting said needle for movement relative to said rack and roller whereby it canbe moved to a threading position to allow an operator to pull a thread through an eye of said needle. VALENTINE NAFTALI. 

